No matter your timeline, budget or ability, El Chaltén is the top town we’d recommend visiting to experience Patagonia. Inside Los Glaciares National Park, this tiny village in Argentina has hiking trails for miles stretching out into picturesque mountains and lagoons. Whether you take them on as day trips or multi-day treks, entry and camping are both free. Yes, FREE. And after you return from a long day of hiking, a ton of unbelievable restaurants await. If you’re nodding your head that this sounds like the best place in Patagonia, here’s how to make the most of your time there.
Getting to El Chaltén
Most people arrive in El Chaltén via a quick three-hour bus from El Calafate ($20-40 USD) after flying into the International Airport. Others take the overnight bus from Bariloche ($100 USD). Tickets can be purchased in person at bus terminals or online from Busbud.
If you’re lucky enough to arrive on a clear day you’ll be greeted from far away with the breathtaking mountainscape represented in the famous Patagonia brand logo. The Information Centre provides a free briefing for every busload of visitors – it’s a helpful overview of the various trails and safety tips.
Afterwards you’ll enter the tiny town which is home to only a few hundred permanent residents. It may seem sleepy at first but every day at the break of dawn and again each afternoon the cafés, restaurants and bars come alive with hikers.
The Main Attraction – Mount Fitzroy
Mount Fitzroy may be lesser known than its Chilean counterpart Las Torres, but it’s every bit as stunning. In our opinion, even more so. On clear days the mountain proudly overlooks the town, its majestic spires attracting everyone from free soloing daredevils to families with young children to campers chasing the sunrise.
The three-hour trek to Fitzroy starts with a slight incline through the forest that levels out into a leisurely path with many viewpoints along the way. The trail is deceivingly easy…until it’s not. The last two kilometres are wildly rocky, practically vertical and seemingly endless. It made for some of the most difficult hiking we experienced in Patagonia. But boy is it ever rewarding.
Just over the final ridge is Mount Fitzroy in all its glory, a massive turquoise lake at its base and a panorama of rocks, hikers and mountains in every direction. It’s not just a beautiful view, it’s worth exploring too. You can easily spend an hour or two looking around for different vantage points. Make sure to check out the waterfall running out of the lake to the left before you begin the trek back down.
Endless Exploration – Other Trails Around Town
While Fitzroy is the attraction that lures people to El Chaltén, there are other trails poking out all around town that are worth the hike. To ensure you have enough time to explore and have the flexibility to work around inevitable foggy days, we’d recommend 4-5 days in El Chaltén.
- Chorrillo del Salto – There’s a waterfall 20-minutes from the entrance to Fitzroy trail and the path is almost entirely flat. It makes for a great hike on the day of arrival or departure or as a plan B if the fog rolls in.
- Los Condores – Another short hike worth squeezing in, though slightly more vertical. Starting near the visitor centre, the view at the end of this 45-minute trail provides a spectacular view of El Chaltén, especially on a clear day when Fitzroy can be seen rising behind the town.
- Loma del Pliegue Tumbado – We didn’t get to this trek because we were frankly a little hiked out, but those who did raved about the panoramic view at the end and claimed it was the best in town.
- Lago Torres – This 3 hour trail gets you closer to Glacier Grande, though we turned around at the lookout half way. It was an excellent view and we already had our fill of amazing glaciers in Patagonia.
Indulge in World Class Food
The only thing that might take longer than hiking your way through El Chaltén would be eating your way through it. Restaurants ranging from traditional barbecue to fancy delicacies, vegan pastas, small cafés and burger shops line the streets.
Related // 10 Must-have food experiences in Buenos Aires
Our top recommendation is La Oveja Negra. Located towards the entrance of Mount Fitzroy trail, this traditional Parrilla (bbq joint) remains our favourite after months of tasting competitors in Argentina. A variety of meats grilled to perfection, charred veg, crispy fresh-cut fries and cold local brews to wash it all down. There’s no better way to recover from a day on the trails. And to top it off, the salame de chocolate. A dessert sausage with a variety of chocolate and nuts, icing sugar and a drizzle of dulce de leche of course, this is Argentina after all. The restaurant is cash only and El Chaltén only has one ATM so make sure to load up in El Calafate.
If you’re looking for something a bit more formal for a special occasion or date night, try Fuegia Bistro. The white tablecloths and exceptional wine list are a notably different vibe from the clinking of trekking poles on the trails. Their chocolate mousse is one of the best we’ve ever had.
Or if you simply need a break from Argentinian steak and Patagonian lamb, check out La Cava. Start with a Happy Hour Aperol Spritz while soaking up the last of the afternoon sun on the adorable patio. Then transition inside for a selection of tapas and hearty dishes like veggie lasagna or perfectly prepared fish of the day.
Arni Stinnissen
June 19, 2019 at 7:15 pmSounds like a wonderful place to do everything!
Dianne Stinnissen
June 19, 2019 at 7:22 pmEverything looks so wonderful!
Sandra Robinson
June 20, 2019 at 9:30 amPatagonia is coming to life for me through your blogs. I am in awe of the scenery you provide with your pictures but have to say I would like to experience the dining portion in person. My mouth watered as I read your recommendations.