Atacama to Uyuni | The Road to Bolivia’s Salt Flats

Seeing the largest salt flats in the world was one of our top priorities in South America. A massive, otherworldly desert landscape of salt that transforms into an infinite mirror after rainfall – there’s simply no place like it. Sequestered in barren Southwestern Bolivia, tours are the most common way to explore the area. While we briefly considered taking the bus from San Pedro de Atacama to Uyuni we’re oh so glad we opted for a 3-day tour instead.

Salar de Uyuni turned out to be the cherry on top of a very delicious cake. The route passed through an eclectic array of sites. From a crimson lake of flamingos to fields of grazing llamas and psychedelic bubbling geysers. Each stop is noteworthy on its own but together, the road from San Pedro de Atacama to Salar de Uyuni is rare and astonishing in all the best ways.

Related // Salar de Uyuni | The Ultimate Guide to Bolivia’s Salt Flats

Atacama to Uyuni | Day 1 | The Rainbow Route

Our tour began at 5am from Atacama, a small van driving a group of us towards the Bolivia border. We chatted excitedly with others from around the world about the journey ahead before stopping to enjoy a roadside sunrise breakfast in the shadow of Licancabur Volcano. The gates opened to let the masses through and we were soon in line for some fresh ink in our passports.

A fleet of 4×4 Jeeps waited for us in the blowing sand. Guides called out names to divide our big group from the morning into smaller groups. The jovial Juan Carlos introduced himself to our squad (now the 2 of us and 4 more from Paris). Luckily, one of our new companions spoke a bit of Spanish, which the tour would be conducted in from here on out.

With our luggage wrapped in tarps on the roof, we set off. Two of us in the back, three in the middle and one in the front. It was to be a very bumpy ride so the person with the weakest stomach road shotgun. Right away that proved to be a smart decision as the vehicle tore down the gravel road towards the mountains.

It wasn’t long before we were in awe. Laguna Blanca appeared at first as a sheet of ice, the snow-capped mountains rising up behind adding to the effect. Only when ripples flowed across the surface was it revealed to be a peculiar body of water. Borax makes the lagoon appear milky white, a stark contrast to the mossy shores.

Our next taste of the unbelievable and surprising colour of Bolivia was Laguna Verde. A green lagoon surrounded by rocky shores reminiscent of the Caribbean’s turquoise waters and white beaches. Cool wind blew in every direction and even with other cars parked around us it was very serene. Our guide had to lure us away, reminding us there was still lots to see.

Next we traversed the vast stretch of land known as the Valley of Ladies. The sandy road appeared endless in front of us while dunes and mountains flanked the desolate expanse on either side. Stepping out of the car reminded us how isolated from civilization we were.

The Hot Springs of Polques gave many weary travellers a chance for a relaxing dip in the warm water with stunning views of the vibrant Laguna Chalviri surrounded by orange, white and green textures. The high altitude made the air surprisingly cold and the pools were packed so we opted to save the entry fee. Wandering the shores of the lagoon was enough for us.

Farther down the dusty road we stopped at Geysers of Sol de Mañana. Unlike El Tatio in San Pedro, these colourful wonky holes bubbled up thick grey sludge. The steam wafting from them was heavily sulphuric. A fact we didn’t catch when our Spanish-speaking guide warned we shouldn’t get too close. But we couldn’t resist hopping from rock to rock to see this curious land-before-time from every angle.

Onwards to our hotel for the night. A simple establishment (to put it nicely) but hard to complain about a bed, a hot meal and a place to sit for a game of cards after a day spent in a cramped Jeep. Before the sun set, we drove out to the nearby Laguna Colorada, a jaw-dropping scene of mountains and red water teaming with flamingos. Watching the pink birds pick at the water was definitely a highlight of our first day from San Pedro de Atacama to Salar de Uyuni. Before bed we braved the cold for a glimpse of the stars, reflecting on a whirlwind day in colourful Bolivia.

Atacama to Uyuni | Day 2 | Lunching with Llamas

Day 2 of our journey from San Pedro de Atacama to Salar de Uyuni kicked off early. We rocketed across the desert once again, our tour guide rousing us from early morning drowsiness with a booming French soundtrack for the benefit of our Parisian companions. The drive was long with a few stops for lagoons, sleepy desert towns, llama sightings and bathroom breaks in Incan toilets. Aka the side of the road.

Soon the landscape transformed. The desert became speckled with green bushes and red rocks grew sharp and tall, forming into odd shapes. We spent the morning making stops at various rocky hotspots subjectively named for their vague resemblance to things like the World Cup or a camel – all excellent for climbing and taking in the sweeping views of the rocky terrain.

As our stomachs started to grumble the Jeep pulled off-road into a small winding path through the cliffs. We stopped in a clearing with plenty of green, flowing streams and towering rocks on all sides. We followed our guide on foot across the soft, wet ground through a secret path in the wall of rocks before reaching what’s appropriately known as the Mysterious Lagoon.

Returning from the lagoon we were thrilled to find a pack of llamas had wandered into the clearing for a nibble. We slowly walked among them, grateful for the chance to see the fluffy animals up-close. Lunch was served picnic style next to the grazing llamas for one of our most memorable meals.

After a brief photo opp at the massive Sora Canyon we arrived at our final stop of the day. A small abandoned desert town save for a few shops for tourists. A train track ran through the center, one of the only stops for miles. We sampled a selection of deliciously unique Bolivia brews made of everything from quinoa to coca.

Farther down the road we reached our hotel for the night – a hotel made of salt. The chairs, walls, tables and much of what we saw and touched was comprised of the white mineral. A preview of what we all came from San Pedro de Atacama to see: Salar de Uyuni.

Atacama to Uyuni | Day 3 | The Salt Flats

The earliest day en route from San Pedro de Atacama to Salar de Uyuni, day 3 promised to be spectacular. We drove through the dark for an hour. Anticipation grew in our groggy minds: would we see the famous reflections of Salar de Uyuni? Would the salt flats really be as incredible as the pictures in our minds?

Then, without warning, we had arrived. Through the pitch black the Jeep picked up speed. Rolling down our windows we could hear an unfamiliar sound: water splashing below our wheels. The lights of other cars raced in front and beside us. Everyone was getting into position for the grand reveal.

There were 2 inches of water on the ground when we stepped out. Sunlight was just starting to illuminate the sky beyond far away mountains. Salt crunched beneath our feet. Every second it got brighter and better. The largest mirror in the world was slowly being revealed around us, silhouettes of Jeeps and fellow travellers reflecting in the water.

The colours were mind-blowing. First, a spot of orange on the horizon revealed a light strip of yellow followed by blinding white that turned the pitch black sky to navy then bright blue, all reflected in perfect symmetry to envelop our vision. The salt flats were every bit as impressive as we imagined. And our day had just begun.

After several rounds of pictures with the reflections we finally relented to seeing more of the flats. In full daylight we could see just how immense they were. A completely flat white desert in every direction. It was dazzling, and an absolute blast to drive across.

Then, something completely unexpected. An island materialized on the horizon. And not just any island: an island covered in cacti. Incahuasi Island was the strangest and most wonderful thing. We hiked around the many oddly-shaped, spiky plants for an even greater view of the flats.

Related // Where to stay + what to do in Uyuni

We spent the next couple hours fully embracing the wonder of photography in the salt flats and the captivating perspectives it allowed. After a quick stop at the salt museum, and the Uyuni train cemetery, the tour was over. We were mystified, satisfied and looking forward to a good night’s sleep in Uyuni.

Salar de Uyuni is a must-visit for any traveller. And in our opinion, the best experience is to see the colourful world surrounding the white desert with a tour from San Pedro de Atacama to Salar de Uyuni. 

What do you think was the most beautiful stop on the road from San Pedro de Atacama to Salar de Uyuni?