After four months in South America, Buenos Aires stole our hearts. Its eclectic and vibrant barrios. Its spirited people. Its dramatic history. Its food scene that could rival any major city. You don’t have to look far to find culture in BA – it oozes from the buildings into the streets. From tango dancing in the square at 3am, to rowdy football fans, to packed markets and antique stands with patrons bartering over the sound of a nearby street band. There’s a lot to love about Argentina’s so-called ‘little Europe’.
The charming cobblestone streets of San Telmo, with quaint cafés circling one of our favourite food markets in the world, became home for two weeks as we explored the city’s many corners. This (lengthy) Buenos Aires city guide covers all our favourite things to see and do, from history to culture to shopping and getting outdoors. As well as where to eat in this foodie haven, basics like budgeting, where to stay and how to stay safe.
Related // The Perfect 4-Day Buenos Aires Itinerary
Buenos Aires City Guide
Visit historic landmarks: The top four places to experience history in BA
Soak up the culture: Three ways to immerse yourself in the pride of Porteños
Get outside: Our favourite Buenos Aires parks and gardens
Shop til you drop: Where to shop + what to shop for in BA
The Food Scene: The best places to eat in Buenos Aires
Day Trips: Three quick getaways
Time of year: When to visit Argentina’s Capital
Accommodation: What neighbourhoods to stay in + our favourite hotel
Getting around: A 101 on transportation in the city
Stay Safe: Top tips for avoiding tourist scams in Buenos Aires
Budgeting: Costs of basics when exploring the city
Things to See in Buenos Aires | History
As the capital, and home to a third of the country’s population, the streets of Buenos Aires have been the largest stage for Argentina’s storied past. In over 200 years of independence from its Spanish founders, the country has yet to settle. Deep-rooted corruption, a seemingly unending tug-o-war between conflicting political beliefs and a volatile economy have plagued it with instability. But you wouldn’t know it having spent some time there. The pride of the Argentine people because of – and in spite of – these struggles is overwhelming.
- Recoleta Cemetery – The labyrinth of tombstones and statues of this 20th century cemetery appear on almost every Buenos Aires travel guide. We almost didn’t go, but ended up totally captivated, wandering its angled pathways until closing time. Behold the beauty for yourself in our photo journal of Recoleta Cemetery.
- Plaza de Mayo – This central square has long been the place where the people of Buenos Aires have congregated to oppose government pitfalls. Perón used the square to host populist rallies. The Mothers of Plaza de Mayo peacefully protested the violent deaths and disappearances of 10,000 young men during the military era. And when the government pinned, then unpinned, the peso to the US dollar and locals lost fortunes overnight, it was Plaza de Mayo where they gathered. The Mothers of Plaza de Mayo can still be seen marching on Thursday afternoons as a reminder of their cause.
- Casa Rosada – The pink-hued building at the head of Plaza de Mayo is the presidential office. Though, potentially more famous from the film Evita, which depicted the First Lady singing from the iconic balcony. There’s a free museum inside (reservation required).
- Underground Tunnels – Archaeologists are still uncovering parts of the the mysterious tunnels beneath the city. There are two spots where you can see the subterranean labyrinth for yourself: the first is El Zanjón de Granados, a refurbished mansion with an entryway to the restored and illuminated passageways. The second is Manzana de las Luces, or ‘the block of enlightenment’, which was once the thriving centre of Buenos Aires. Beneath lies an underground network of secret tunnels – some say to connect churches, others secret torture chambers, or defensive rooms during the Argentine War of Independence. Check the website to secure a guided visit before you go.
- The Architecture of Avenida de Mayo – Starting from the remarkable National Congress building, walk along Avenida de Mayo to see some ornate Florentine architecture in Buenos Aires. One of the most famous buildings on the street is Palacio Barolo which tells the story of The Divine Comedy, the ground floor representing Hell, the next 15 floors representing Purgatory and the top floors representing Heaven.
Things to Do in Buenos Aires | Culture
While the capital’s tumultuous political past divided classes, led to riots and a too-long period when half of the country was plunged below the poverty line, it also united people. The city is historically divided into the North and South. The North is where the rich settled. Where they were buried, where they built political buildings and where demonstrations were held. The South on the other hand is known for being rougher, poorer, gritty and resilient. But all sides of the city are worth exploring.
- La Boca – The Southside haven for the working-class, artists and street performers is the beating heart of culture in Buenos Aires. Colourful houses covered in graffiti and streets bustling with equally colourful people. The neighbourhood is known for crime so go during the day. To learn more about the neighbourhood’s history you can join a free walking tour.
- Football match – We unfortunately landed in Buenos Aires during the off-season but there is surely no better way to throw yourself into the local culture than attending a heated football match. The best place is La Bombonera in La Boca so best go with a group during the day. Buy tickets in advance and be sure not to wear opposing team colours.
- Tango – Buenos Aires is the birthplace of Tango and proud of it. The fiery dance embodies the drama of the nation and remains in the hearts (and feet) of locals. For a free lesson and show, stick around the Sunday San Telmo Market after dinner and watch as a crowd gathers, pros and amateurs alike. There are also countless dinner shows and lessons available around the city.
Things to Do in Buenos Aires | Get Outside
In a country known for epic vistas and natural wonders, the pulsing, electric Buenos Aires stands in stark contrast. While age-old trees tower over city sidewalks and local parks, the mountain ranges of Patagonia and the farmlands of the Pampas are nowhere in sight. But if you’re itching for a momentary escape to nature there are a few peaceful options.
- Botanical Gardens – On the edge of the Palermo neighbourhood sits the Buenos Aires Botanical Gardens. You can spend an afternoon wandering the maze of trails through spice and flower gardens or relax on a bench with a good book. The picturesque central green house is an insta-worthy destination in itself.
- Reserva Ecologica Costenara Sur – This nature reserve on the shore is a beautiful, green oasis waiting to be explored. It’s the perfect location to utilize the city’s bike share system and the ideal spot for a morning jog. The views are wonderful and it’s one of the few tranquil spots in a city that never seems to settle.
- Paseo el Rosedal – The Buenos Aires Rose Gardens are a must-see for Instagrammers visiting in late Spring or Summer. Beautiful blooms of all colours line the pathways connecting fountains, pergolas and benches awaiting your photo op. The perfect place to literally stop and smell the roses while you slow down for an early morning stroll. The neighbouring Japanese gardens are also worth a visit if you have some time.
Things to Do in Buenos Aires | Shopping
There’s no shortage of shopping available in Buenos Aires. You can find different boutiques in each neighbourhood, massive shopping complexes and of course countless tourist stalls. For our Buenos Aires city guide we’ve focused on three unique shopping experiences.
- Weekend Palermo Market – Palermo is a shopping destination any day of the week, packed with vintage stores, local furniture craftsmen and all the clothing you could imagine. Each weekend, hipsters and fashionistas gather in Palermo. The streets are rammed with stalls touting knick-knacks and hand-crafted goods.
- Leather – Buenos Aires is known for its buttery, beautiful, handcrafted leather. Head to Murillo Street Leather District if you’re in the market for a jacket, boots or a purse. The value for high-quality leather is unparalleled.
- Sunday San Telmo Market – Every Sunday the streets of San Telmo shut down to traffic and stalls open up. Antiques are spread across table cloths. Jewellery, collectables, trinkets, books and tableware are displayed around Plaza Dorrego and down the surrounding streets. Old-fashioned glass soda bottles twinkle greens and blues in the sunlight. Musicians set up on corners hoping for tips from the hoards of browsers. Artists sit beside their displays, sketching, painting, and creating new pieces. Baskets of fresh empanadas pass by balanced on their maker’s heads. Coffee trollies clink and clank down the cobblestone streets. It’s a fun and fascinating way to spend a Sunday.
Where to Eat in Buenos Aires
While we found some amazing eats during our travels in South America, nowhere was as abundant as Buenos Aires. Our favourite resource for restaurants is Eater and this was one of the first cities on our RTW trip where it came through for us.
The capital showcases the best of Argentine classics, from steak grilled en la parrilla, to the simply perfect choripan, Patagonian lamb and of course, empanadas. It’s no surprise that a city surrounded by farmland (the Pampas) is known for fresh, local ingredients but interestingly its food scene has so much more to offer. Largely due to the influence of its massive European immigrant population. And not just the Spanish like you may think – it’s estimated that over half of the city’s population comes from some percentage of Italian descent. Because of this you’ll find an unexpected number of pizzerias and bakeries with amazing cakes, croissants and plenty more. The mishmash of traditional and European culture has transformed Buenos Aires into a true foodie destination.
Related // The top 10 food experiences to have in Buenos Aires
- San Telmo Market – The small neighbourhood’s central food market is open every day of the week. Whether you want tacos, thai or the best choripan in the country you can find it all and more at San Telmo Market.
- Palermo – For the buzziest new restaurants look no further than Palermo neighbourhood. From classic eateries to modern establishments, Palermo is overflowing with good eats.
- With sumptuous classic dishes and an amazing wine list, El Santa Evita is a popular spot for locals and tourists alike. Stay late enough and the whole crowd may break out into song.
- For elevated comfort food and beer head to Nola. Be sure to try their famous fried chicken sandwich.
- Or to get a true Argentine foodie experience, make a reservation at Proper. The chefs use the country’s finest ingredients from coast to coast. Every dish is unbelievably simple and flavourful. This was by far our favourite restaurant in BA.
- La Boca – In addition to its plethora of street food, this boisterous neighbourhood is also home to one of the best restaurants in the city. Don Carlos was notably featured on Anthony Bourdain’s Parts Unknown but hasn’t let fame go to his head. Pop in to the always-busy spot to (hopefully) snag a seat for lunch and the owner himself will bring you whatever he wants to serve you. Seriously, there’s no menu. The dishes are as classic as they get and extremely flavourful. And they pair perfectly with a bottle of Argentine wine (which he will choose for you as well). Fussy eaters need not enter.
Day Trips
This may be a Buenos Aires city guide but if you have the time, there are some great place to explore within your reach.
- Tigre – Up the river from Buenos Aires is the quaint village of Tigre. Only a 45min train ride from the city you’ll feel much further away as you spend the afternoon boating around and indulging in lunch at one of the many island cafés.
- Colonia de Sacramento in Uruguay – For another stamp in your passport you can take the ferry across to Uruguay and back. The one-hour ferry ride across the Rio de la Plata will transport you back in time. Spend a couple hours strolling the UNESCO-protected historic quarter and enjoy the modest, colourful fusion of Portuguese and Spanish architecture.
- Iguazu Falls – You can’t visit Buenos Aires without a trip to Argentina’s wonder of the world. It may appear far on a map but with a budget airline deal you can be there and back in 30 hours or less. Standing above the thundering waterfalls with mist swirling in every direction was one of the highlights of our year-long trip around the world. Read all about how to do it as a day trip from Buenos Aires here.
When to Visit
One of the best things about Buenos Aires is the weather. The heat of the summer typically only reaches 30ºC and the cool winter nights only dip to 5ºC making any time of year enjoyable. Spring (Oct-Nov) and Fall (March-May) are the most popular time to visit Buenos Aires and also the busiest. Summer (Dec-Feb) is the rainiest time of year. Our Buenos Aires city guide is based on our visit in May/June 2019.
Where to Stay
Buenos Aires is a sprawling metropolis. While each barrio is quite walkable on its own, they are far apart. So you want to stay in the neighbourhood you’ll spend the most time. Many visitors stay in the city centre or Recoleta but we think the best neighbourhoods to call home are Palermo and San Telmo.
Palermo is quite a large neighbourhood to the North West of the city centre. It’s made up of two sections Palermo Viejo and Palermo Soho which both boast incredible restaurants and great shopping. It’s a hip neighbourhood where young locals live and play. You’ll have no problem finding great coffee, decadent brunch or a meal any time of the night. There’s nightlife, parks to explore and a thriving weekend market. If you choose to stay in Palermo we’d recommend choosing one of the incredible apartments available on AirBNB. Use this referral link to get a discount on your first booking.
San Telmo sits South of the city center, North of La Boca. The cobblestone grid of streets and central market are too charming to miss and a huge reason this is our favourite neighbourhood in Buenos Aires. Whether you’re staying here or not the Sunday market is a must-visit. The central market has a ton of affordable and delicious food stalls and the streets are dotted with cafés, from grand European style cathedral ceilings to simple mom and pop shops. If you opt to stay in San Telmo, there are no better options than the apartments at Lemon Suites or, if you’re on a budget, the neighbouring Puerto Lemon Hostel.
Buenos Aires City Guide | Getting Around
Walking – Our favourite way to see a city is by foot and Buenos Aires is no exception. Before you set out be sure to do a bit of research or ask your hotel to ensure you’re crystal clear on where is or isn’t safe to wander, especially at night. But if you’re staying in San Telmo or Palermo you should be safe to set out on foot and explore the neighbourhood.
Metro – Buenos Aires has a robust and easy-to-use Subway system which is a great option for getting from neighbourhood to neighbourhood safely and quickly. It’s significantly more affordable than taxis and Ubers and gives you a better glimpse of local life in the city. You can load up a card at any station and use it throughout your trip.
Uber – Reasonably affordable, readily available and more reliable than the regular taxis in Buenos Aires, Uber is an easy way to get around. Be sure to set your payment method to ‘cash’ and don’t be surprised when your driver messages you to ask where you’re going before coming to get you. They’ll often refuse rides that pay with credit or aren’t going far enough to make it worth their time. This is definitely the safest method of transportation if you’re heading to La Boca.
Taxi – Taxis are abundant in BA. You’ll have no problem finding one in any of the major barrios, but use them with caution. Taxi drivers have a bad wrap for scamming customers. Read why below in our safety section.
Buenos Aires City Guide | Staying Safe
There is no denying that the city has a reputation for pickpockets and scam artists. You should follow all the basic tourist safety tips, like not keeping anything in your back pockets or wearing flashy jewelry, but the city has some specific crimes to watch out for. We’ve met several people who were subject to crime in the city and even witnessed a failed bag-snatching attempt a few feet in front of us. Here are some tips on how to stay safe in Buenos Aires.
Avoid nighttime travel + walking around
Try to arrive at the airport or bus station during the day. Don’t loiter around these areas as they are frequented by thieves. If you are out for a late dinner or drinks order an Uber from your venue to take you home instead of walking, even if it’s a short distance. Tourists at night after a few drinks are seen as the easiest targets.
Sidewalk Safety
Motor bikes are a common mode of transportation and drivers are known to grab bags as they wiz by. They’ve even perfected cutting and snatching cross body bags while on their bikes. Walk closer to buildings than the road. Stand back when waiting for crosswalks. If you have a cross body bag, hang it to the side away from the road and opt for leather or a thicker material. Keep both backpack straps on at all times.
The Mustard Trick
A common scam in Buenos Aires is known as ‘the mustard trick’. A nasty substance, often mustard but could be worse, will be tossed onto your bag or back. A kind local will point it out and offer to help clean it off. When you take your bag off to try and clean it, someone comes by to snatch your bag and runs to a getaway vehicle. Or, while you’re distracted a pickpocket will stealthy grab your money and disappear. All before you realize the good Samaritan who was trying to help was in on it the whole time.
Taxi Scams
Never get in an unmarked taxi. They should always have a ‘Radio Taxi’ sign on top and stickers on the doors. The city has been cracking down on Taxi scams recently but there are still some to watch out for:
- The most common is taking long winding routes to drive up the meter, known as the ‘gringo route’. This is easily avoided by watching the GPS on your phone and directing the driver. This even happened with us in an Uber so always pay attention.
- The worse taxi scams are drivers that take customers to ATMs and force them to withdraw money. If this happens, give them what they are asking for and report it to the police (and your insurance) immediately. Never risk your safety for material possessions, it’s simply not worth it.
- Always carry small bills to provide exact change if taking a taxi. Drivers have been known to return change with counterfeit bills.
- If possible, get your taxi from a legitimate taxi stand (i.e. at the bus station) or have a restaurant or store call one for you vs. hailing one on the street.
La Boca Safety
The notoriously dangerous neighbourhood certainly has a bad rap for a reason. We had a lovely day in La Boca but were warned profusely not to travel there at night. So take an Uber in and out and stick to the main streets. We brought only the essentials with us and were both alert while we were there. Other areas to be extra cautious, or avoid entirely, are the streets surrounding the bus and train stations and Florida Street.
Travel Insurance
Should the worst happen you want to be prepared. Get travel insurance that covers theft. We opted for World Nomads and would highly recommend it. Click here to learn more.
Buenos Aires City Guide | Budgeting
The Argentine Peso fluctuates so drastically that budgeting for a trip to Buenos Aires can be a nightmare. While we were planning, all the resources we used were based on a significantly stronger Peso from prior years so we were pleasantly surprised by how affordable the city was in 2019. Unfortunately the benefits we get as travelers are due to the on-going economic crisis locals continue to struggle with.
Dorms – ARS 500-800 ($8-13 USD)
Double Apartment – ARS 1800 ($40 USD) per night
Breakfast at a Cafe – ARS 300-500 ($5-9 USD)
Choripan at the market – ARS 50 (<$1 USD)
Fine Dining Dinner + Wine – ARS 1300-3000+ ($20-50)
Metro Card + 4 Trips – ARS 170 ($3 USD)
Bottle of Malbec – From ARS 100 ($1.50 USD)
A load of laundry – Around ARS 240 ($4 USD)
**All rates in our Buenos Aires city guide are based on our stay in June 2019, be sure to check the exchange rate before you visit.
Hot tip – Argentina has strict ATM withdrawal limits and high fees so you end up paying about 10% to withdraw money. If you’re visiting for a short trip it’s best to bring cash (preferably USD) to exchange vs. relying on ATMs.
Luckily, credit cards (primarily Visa) are widely accepted, so you shouldn’t need too much cash anyway. If you are planning a longer trip we know people who used Western Union to secure money as the rate was slightly better.
