Food is one of our favourite things about travel. Tasting new and interesting cuisines from place to place is an adventure all its own. And what Buenos Aires brings to the table could take months to explore. Spanish, Italian, BBQ, baked goods, sweets and street food – the list goes on and on. After two weeks in Buenos Aires some of the best things about our trip to the capital city were food (and drink) related.
Sure, there are steaks and empanadas and all the other quintessential eats, but there are so many other amazing experiences to be had. This post isn’t just a list of top restaurants (though you can find that here), it’s the most memorable, interesting, and uniquely Argentine experiences in Buenos Aires that are sure to make your visit to the city a delectable one.
Related // The countries best empanadas can be found in Salta, with Colonia Suiza as a close runner up
1 / Crown the Choripan Champion
The empanada might be South America’s most notable street food but there’s another quick bite we found even more irresistible: the mouth-watering choripan. At its simplest, a choripan is a butterflied and grilled chorizo sausage on a bun. You can find many different variations in Buenos Aires with flavours from traditional to modern.
But for the absolute best – not just in BA but the entire country – head to Nuestra Parilla on the Eastside of San Telmo Market. It’s the classic choripan perfected. Juicy, flavourful, grilled and sliced right in front of you and served on a bakery-fresh roll. You can top it as you like with chimichurri and hot pepper salsa. Over two weeks we went back three times. And we would have gone back for a fourth if the shop owner didn’t make his own irregular hours. If it’s closed when you arrive, give it 30 minutes or so and it’ll likely open again. It’s worth the wait.
For an ultra-modern take on Argentina’s signature sausage check out Chori in Palermo neighbourhood. The menu has Japanese, Greek, lamb, spicy and veggie versions to feast on, along with plenty of fresh and delicious sides, craft beer and gin cocktails. It’s all very, very tasty and perfect for lunch before or after shopping. Give yourself extra time though, as the lineup can often stretch down the block.
Related // Our very first Choripan in Maipu, Mendoza
2 / Delight in Argentina’s world-class wine
Whether or not you’re heading to Mendoza during your time in Argentina, sampling the country’s wine is an absolute must. Our favourite place for a tasting is the boutique wine bar on the Southside of San Telmo Market called Nilson. The chalkboard over the tiny 10-seater bar stays updated with a modest selection of unique and lesser-known wines from across the country. Enjoy an innovative, fruity orange wine from Valle de Uco, or a classic and perfectly-plummy Malbec, by the glass or bottle. Either way, for the best experience, be sure to ask the lovely couple behind the bar for their advice and they’ll happily pair your pick with fresh bread, artisan cheese, prosciutto and olives on the side.
Related // Where to sample flights of local wine in Mendoza City
3 / Get loud with locals at El Santa Evita
This relatively new Palermo eatery is a popular dining spot for locals and tourists alike. And for good reason: the food is fantastic. Salteña-style empanadas, milanesa, ossobuco and mashed potatoes. It’s Argentine comfort food at its finest. But the best part of a night at El Santa Evita comes later. To get the full local experience don’t show up before 10pm. Order a pinguino of the house wine and soda, which will arrive in an old-timey soda sprayer, an icon of Buenos Aires bars. You’ll fit right in. As the night ages and the crowd loosens up everyone is bound to break out into song, chanting “Peron, Peron!” when the political hit comes on. You may not know the words at first but by the third (or fourth) rendition you’ll be joining in with as much enthusiasm as your neighbours.
4 / Leave the ordering to Don Carlos
The La Boca staple across from the Football stadium has grown in fame recently due to recommendations from famous foodies around the world, including the incomparable Anthony Bourdain, local legend Francis Mallmen and even lifestyle queen Gwyneth Paltrow. The unassuming dining room is always full of happy patrons devouring the constant turnover of plates in front of them.
Don Carlos himself will greet you and seat you before serving dish after dish of perfectly prepared local dishes. There are no menus. You don’t make the decisions. He does. And it’s fantastic. Be sure to accept the bottle of wine offered and pace yourself, you’re sure to get more than you can possibly eat. And then some.
5 / Sip a Sundowner at Palacio Barolo
This one is more about the view than the food but it’s definitely an experience you shouldn’t miss while in Buenos Aires. Before the sun tucks in for the night make your way to Palacio Barolo. The building is famous for its architecture representing The Divine Comedy so most people visit for the tour. But you can also pay an entry fee to enjoy the sunset over the city from the bar on the 16th floor, Salon 1923. The fee goes towards your cocktails so the viewing is essentially free. The bar itself is a bit kitschy and the cocktails aren’t particularly noteworthy but the view is spectacular. Order a negroni or a glass of malbec, and get a good spot overlooking Avenida de Mayo. As the sun dips below the horizon, the National Congress lights up for the night and you get a rare view of Buenos Aires from above. Cheers.
6 / Go on a dulce de leche tasting
In terms of Buenos Aires sweets, dulce de leche reigns supreme. It’s often served as an accompaniment to pancakes and waffles, and is undoubtedly the star on dessert menus across the country. Our favourite iteration is the alfajor, where it’s sandwiched between two cookies and sprinkled with sugar or coated in chocolate. But not all dulce de leche is created equal – some are darker, some sweeter and some have unusual flavours, like birthday cake. You can taste your way through them all at San Telmo Market where there’s several shops waiting with open jars and plastic spoons. A wonderfully lip-smacking treat after a savoury lunch.
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7 / Cool off with chocolate-covered raspberries
Our profound love for Rapanui started in the chocolate shop-lined streets of San Carlos de Bariloche. So when we saw the name pop up on the map in Buenos Aires we knew at least one visit was in order. The ultimate treat at Rapanui is their frozen dark and white chocolate-covered raspberries called Fra-nui. They come in a little tub and are so good you may end up downing the whole thing and grabbing another to go (guilty). Along with a ridiculous assortment of chocolates, they also make possibly the best pistachio gelato we’ve ever had, and that includes the gelato in Florence. Pop into their Recoleta or Palermo location when your sweet tooth needs a fix.
Related // Our favourite non-hiking experiences in Bariloche
8 / Taste the best ingredients in Argentina, the Proper way.
Agriculture has historically been a vital industry for Argentine people. There’s no better place to taste the fruits of their labour than at Proper. Possibly our favourite restaurant in South America hides inside a renovated mechanic shop in South Palermo. Easily missable from the street, the food is anything but. The menu is comprised of mostly small plates that highlight the best seasonal and local ingredients in the country. Everything you taste will be the perfectly prepared. Even the bread course is elevated with freshly baked sourdough, olive oil from Patagonia and salt from Jujuy. Pair it with tangy anchovies from Mar del Plata and your palate will thank you. We would have gladly ate our way through the entire menu
9 / Café hop in San Telmo
Aside from the cobblestone streets, it’s the quaint cafes on every other corner that make San Telmo feel more European than South American. Whether you’re after a quick espresso, a weekend brunch or a decadent croissant, it’s always no more than a block away in our favourite barrio. Café Rivas is the most notable with high ceilings and a picture-perfect bar for coffee and cocktails but we popped into many during our two-week stay in Buenos Aires and none disappointed.
Related // Discover Our favourite Argentina Brunch Spot
10 / See the passion of Buenos Aires on stage
Tango is an inseparable part of Buenos Aires culture. The emotion and struggle of Porteños comes to life in fiery performances at many dinner shows across the city. And while dinner and theatre isn’t always our thing, we couldn’t pass up the experience while in the city. Homero Manzi put on an impressive Tango show with support from a live band. It was surprisingly moving and we left with a newfound appreciation for the dance at the heart of the people. The food wasn’t particularly notable but the bottomless Malbec that came with it sure helped.
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Dianne Stinnissen
December 16, 2019 at 11:38 pmFantastic! Sounds lip smacking!
Arni Stinnissen
December 17, 2019 at 3:07 amSounds perfect, it must have been hard to pace yourselves!