A turbulent political and financial past has brewed a uniquely eccentric culture in Argentina’s capital city. Buenos Aires and its people will draw you in, seducing you to embrace their wonderfully exciting and colourful way of life. You’ll be tempted to forget your onward travel plans and stay for one more Sunday market or Tuesday night tango. It’s no wonder many ex-pats flock to Palermo to rent apartments for months at a time, losing themselves in the rare romantic combination of South American and European culture. Alas, most travellers have mere days to soak it all in. So we’ve put together this guide for how to spend 4 fanciful days in Buenos Aires. Believe us, you shouldn’t come for any less. And plan them over a weekend, if possible.
The Ideal 4-Day Buenos Aires Itinerary
Day 1 – Arrive + Settle In
Day 2 – A Self-Guided City Tour
Day 3 – Culture Central
Day 4 – A San Telmo Sunday
Related // The Ultimate Guide to Buenos Aires
Buenos Aires Itinerary Day 1 // Arrive + Settle In
Arrive – Whether arriving by air, bus or train, watch your belongings as you navigate your way to your hotel. Pickpockets frequent tourist-dense areas. Uber is your best bet, or a registered taxi if you can’t connect.
Stay – We’d advocate for making San Telmo’s Lemon Suites your home, though a cozy AirBNB in Palermo is a wonderful alternative.
Eat – Head to boutique wine bar Nilson outside the San Telmo Market for happy hour. Familiarize yourself with the country’s world-class wine selection and have some snacks as you adjust to the absurdly late dinner time in the city. Pop down to Café San Juan for a simply delicious Argentine meal perfect for your first night in town. Or, if you arrive late and want something quick before tucking in for the night, step inside San Telmo Market. There’s a taco shop on the corner, Thai just inside the entrance and many other quick bites.
Related // Discover our 10 favourite Buenos Aires Food Experiences
Buenos Aires Itinerary Day 2 // A Self-Guided City Tour
Morning – Enjoy a short walk through San Telmo’s cobblestone streets lined with ornate doorways en route to breakfast at the grand Café Rivas. After, walk straight up the barrio’s grid of streets towards Plaza de Mayo. Marvel at the iconic Casa Rosada and imagine the tortured history of the square come to life. If you’re interested in a guided history of the city pre-book a free tour of the museum.
Afternoon – Catch a taxi to El Ateneo Grand Splendid. The city is known for its unprecedented number of used book stores, but none are as magical as this converted theatre. Be sure to head up to the top floor for the best view. For lunch, make the trek to La Cocina for the city’s most famous Empanadas. Or treat yourself to gelato at Rapanui.
From there, you’re a short walk from Recoleta Cemetery. An oddly beautiful labyrinth of twentieth century tombs and fascinating untold stories. Get lost in the ornate maze for a couple of hours before catching a cab to Palermo. If there’s still some daylight head to the Botanical Gardens or post up on a bench in Plaza Armenia and people watch. Or spend the rest of the afternoon popping in and out of Palermo’s endless shops.
Related // A Photo Tour of Recoleta Cemetery
Evening – Start the night with happy hour beers and a snack at Nola. Or if you want to spend more time with the country’s wine, Pain et Vin will set you up with a guided flight. Once the sun has long been set and the locals are spilling into the bars, head to dinner. Choose El Santa Evita for a fun atmosphere and rowdy crowd. Or Proper for our favourite meal in town, with endless small plates highlighting the best of the country’s ingredients and wonderful wine pairings.
Buenos Aires Itinerary Day 3 // Culture Central
Morning – Hit up one of the many cafés in San Telmo for a light breakfast, but save your stomach for the epic lunch on its way. Uber down to La Boca to spend the day. Saturdays are best as the streets will be full of life and crime is less likely. No matter what day you go, don’t venture off the beaten path and be sure to arrive and depart by Uber or registered cab, always before dark. Walking to and from La Boca is strongly ill-advised.
Monday to Saturday you can join a La Boca walking tour at 11am for ARS 600. It’s a great, safe way to see the neighbourhood and learn about its reputation and history.
Afternoon – Once you’ve acclimated to the neighbourhood it’s time for a big, big lunch. Head to Don Carlos, right across from the La Boca stadium, sit back and relax. The owner will seat you and let you know that he will be choosing your food. No menus or ordering required. He’ll bring you what he likes, along with a bottle of wine, if you fancy. It sounds odd but it’s awesome. The food is traditional and wonderfully prepared. Lots of comfort food and meat so be sure to go hungry. If the stars align and you’re in town for a football match head to La Bombonera stadium. If not, we’d suggest an afternoon siesta.
Evening – Experience another side of Buenos Aires culture with a Tango show. There are countless options in town and no doubt they all have their pros and cons. We opted for Homero Manzi. The show was impressive, the food was decent, and the bottomless Malbec made up for any shortcomings. Leave your expectations at home and enjoy some fabricated fun for an evening. You’re sure to have a grand time.
Buenos Aires Itinerary Day 4 // A San Telmo Sunday
Morning – Enjoy some extra sleep after what was likely a late night and when you’re ready to face the world stumble over to Plaza Dorrego. The square transforms on Sundays with vendors spilling out in every direction. Grab coffee from a passing cart, or have a light brunch at Casa Telma. Wander the stalls of antiques, learn about the history of the beautifully coloured glass soda sprayers, watch artists sketch in front of their stalls and get lost on the streets of San Telmo.
Note: Our 4-day Buenos Aires Itinerary is meant to be flexible. If day 2 is a Sunday, swap the order up so that you can make it to the Sunday Market. If you aren’t visiting on a Sunday at all, no worries, the central market is open every day.
Afternoon – When your feet are tired of navigating the endless vendors and your stomach is grumbling, set your sights on Nuestra Parrilla on the Westside of the Central Market in San Telmo. This charcoal grill offers arguably the best choripan in the city – maybe the country. There’s nothing better for soaking up few too many Malbecs than a greasy chorizo on a bun. Consider splitting a choripan before kicking off an afternoon food tour in San Telmo Market.
The empanadas from El Hornero are a must try. The massive crowd may dissuade you at first, but one of a dozen waiters will find you and ask for your order before finding you a place to sit and cracking you a cold beer, if you’d like. We can also vouch for The Market Burger, La Fabrica del Taco, and Gimme Curry. All amazing. But we aren’t done with the food tour yet so pace yourself.
Related // Discover our favourite empanadas in Argentina
As a treat to end the heavy food you can create your own tasting route of the local delicacy: dulce de leche. Just up the stairs from the main food court you’ll find two dulce de leche shops, both offering a line-up of flavours to try. We certainly wouldn’t judge you for heading back to Nilson after to wash it all down with another glass of wine.
Evening – If you don’t need a siesta that afternoon, you aren’t Argentinian yet. Be sure to wake up before the sun starts to set though. Take the Subway up to the National Congress building, or if you have extra time, check out the city’s version of the Washington Monument, Obelisco de Buenos Aires. Walk along Avenida de Mayo towards Palacio Barolo. Head inside and pay the entry fee for Salon 1923 on the 16th floor. Don’t worry, the cost will go towards your cocktails at the top. Grab a drink and station yourself on the Western side of the small patio to watch the spectacular sunset. If you’re hungry afterwards, you’re very close to one of the best pizza shops in town – Guerrin. Or head back to San Telmo.
Around 8pm the vendors in Plaza Dorrego tear down and locals gather. The central square transforms as professional tango dancers set up speakers and the cobblestone becomes a stage. Be sure to wear your dancing shoes – you could be selected to learn some moves. Newbies stumble their way through with smiles on their faces while seasoned pros float around with impressive footwork. The whole neighbourhood will soon come to life with bands marching up and down the surrounding streets. The perfect send off from the city.
Arni Stinnissen
December 9, 2019 at 5:22 pmA very impressive agenda that more than satisfies all the senses!