Chile | The Highlights of Lake District

Chile’s Lake District connects the ominous volcanoes of the Western Andes and the Pacific coast with glistening lakes, fields of grazing cows and inviting towns. Between the adventure hub Pucón in the North and picturesque Puerto Varas in the South, this often overshadowed region of Chile has something for everyone. Here are the not-to-be-missed highlights from our road trip through Chile’s Lake District.

Explore and Eat in Puerto Varas

Puerto Varas is a lively and spirited seaside town. Volcano Osorno reflects in Lake Llanquihue as ships sail into port and kayakers head out for sunset cruises. Walks along the waterfront offer the best of Puerto Varas, from La Puntilla statue to the quirky Museo Pablo Fierro. The views alone are worth sticking around an extra day or two, in case it’s cloudy. On a clear day, hit the beach to watch the sunset paint the volcanos red across the water before heading to dinner.

Speaking of, there’s no shortage of dining options in Puerto Varas. The food scene is on point – the seafood is fresh and plentiful and many restaurants by the water offer excellent sea views (and did we mention sunsets?)

Our first (and favourite) stop was the intimate eight-table Costumbrista just around the corner from our hostel. The ceviche was the best we had in all of South America and the gnocchi and salmon mains were to die for. It’s also where we first tried the classic Chilean dessert, Leche Asada, or Burnt Milk.

For a more formal setting head to Casavaldes for expertly prepared seafood with a view. The octopus was amazingly tender and while we may have been a little too adventurous ordering the sea urchin (ick) it was an overall fantastic meal, and a good opportunity to dress up a little. If you’re looking for something refreshing, head to Pudu for the best ice cream in town, or for something healthier the Bless.YUZ food truck has freshly squeezed juice.

If time allows, take a short drive or rent a bike to visit the small German settlement of Frutillar for lunch and a different view of the lake and Volcano. We’d highly recommend Agapanto Café for the menu del dia. 

The Deets

MaPatagonia Hostel – Dorms starting at 8,000 CLP ($11 USD) and private doubles at 22,000 CLP ($30 USD)
Museo Pablo Fierro – Open Mon-Sat // Free but donations encouraged
Costumbrista – Open Mon-Sat // Del Salvador 547 / With less than a dozen tables it’s liable to fill up fast, go early to get a seat!
Helados Pudu – Best ice cream in town // Sta Rosa 318
Bless Yuz – Fresh juices, smoothies and health food (a nice break from a meat-heavy culture) // San Francisco 666
Agapanto Cafe – Three-course menu del dia for 5,900 CLP ($8 USD) / Grab a seat outside to enjoy the view while you eat // Avenida Philippi 1215 Frutillar

Get up close to Volcano Osorno

Once you’ve seen enough of Volcano Osorno from across the lake, get a closer look with a hike around the summit. It’s only a short drive from Puerto Varas and accessible via public bus if you don’t have a car.

Before you get to the Volcano, take a quick pit stop at Saltos de Petrohue to see the water gushing around and over the ancient lava formations at the foot of the volcano. The boardwalks offer different views and there are various easy trails to hike if you have the time. It’s a great spot for a picnic lunch before heading up the volcano.

Tip: wear closed-toe shoes so you don’t get a million rocks in your shoes like Laura did.

There are two options for exploration at the top of Orsano: you can take the chairlift for a fee or you can walk. We opted for the latter so we could take our time and see as much as possible. A local recommended that we take a right at the fork in the path instead of going up the stairs. This brought us around the crater for a more scenic hike before descending.

The Deets

Saltos de Petrohue – 8,500 CLP ($12 USD) for entry // $1,000 CLP ($1.50 USD) // Open daily 9am to 5pm or 6pm
Volcano Orsano – Free to explore on your own or 18,000 CLP ($25 USD) for both lifts and 12,000 CLP ($17 USD) for just the first lift.

Sleep on top of the world

This detour takes wild camping to a whole other level. On the road to Pucón from Puerto Varas (or vise versa), head towards Puyehue for an unbelievable night sleeping on a volcano with panoramic views of the mountains and lakes. It’s a bit out of the way, but trust us, it was our favourite night sleeping outdoors in Chile.

When you arrive in Puyehue, turn right for the thermal baths and keep driving South. You’ll surely think you’re lost after kilometres of seeing no cars but keep going. The spot you’re looking for is accessed through the ski lodge, up a winding switchback road climbing the side of the volcano. Drive until the road levels out and there is no where else to go, then park facing West to enjoy the breathtaking sunset.

The mountain air cooled quickly as the sun fell behind the mountains and lake in the distance sending giant swathes of colour across the sky. We thought we’d be tucking in for the night as soon as the show was over. Little did we know it had just begun. The sky transformed into the most magnificent display of stars we’ve ever seen (even after visiting the Atacama desert). The milky way seemed close enough to touch and two distant galaxies were visible to the naked eye. Be sure to bring your camera and tripod – the photos would be amazing.

Tip: Plan to arrive early enough to explore for a few hours.

If you have any breath left to be taken away, wake early and peak out to see the sun rising up behind the Andes. There’s also plenty to explore around the summit. Just over a small hill you’ll be able to look into a massive crater where lava once flowed, and on the other side, a walking trail that stretches as far as you can possibly walk. Follow the flags for incredible views of the surrounding mountains and volcanoes. 

The Deets

Cost – 12,000 CLP ($17 USD) in a car // Free wifi + banos at the ski lodge
Getting there – Pass the Puyhue Hot Springs and turn right (U-485). Drive 17km through the forest to Antillanca ski lodge.
Puyehue Thermal Hot Springs – The manmade bath will run you 15,000 CLP ($21 USD) for the indoor or $4,500 CLP ($6 USD) for the outdoor // If you’re on a budget, cross the foot bridge to the picnic area and if you walk down the river you’ll find natural pools in the river for free.

Get your Adrenaline Pumping in Pucón

Pucón was our last stop and definitely a highlight, on our South-to-North road trip through Chile’s Lake District. The thriving town is full of tourists, expats and locals seeking adventure, a vibe that’s apparent with a stroll down the busy streets lined with activity and gear rental shops. The most popular activity is climbing Volcano Villarrica where you can look into the crater and see lava before sliding back down through the snow. It’s not for the faint of heart or wallet: you have to wear oxygen masks at the top and it will cost about $150USD. Alas, we arrived over-budget and off-season so when we were told we wouldn’t likely see lava we passed.

But there’s plenty else to do in the area, whether it’s renting a kayak or SUP in the harbour, white water rafting, taking a trip to the nearby thermal baths, or exploring the many parks and waterfalls in the area. Cash-strapped and out of time we made a quick trip to Ojos del Caburga, a picturesque lagoon with emerald-green pools and multiple waterfalls surrounding them. It was cheap and cheerful and well worth the trip.

For a cozy homebase while exploring the Pucón region, check out ChileKiwi Hostel. It has three kitchens, a treehouse lodge, a bar with local craft beers on tap and plenty of space for the many young people coming and going. For a small fee, they let us park our van and use the facilities for the night, which is an excellent option for any road-tripper.

The Deets

Chili Kiwi Hostel – 8,500clp for a dorm to 30,000clp for a private double. They also offer glamping in a renovated VW van and a treehouse to rival childhood dreams.
Ojos del Caburga  – 1,000 CLP ($1.50 USD) / 20 minutes East of Pucón.

Are we missing any highlights of Chile’s Lake District?

Across the boarder, Argentina’s Lake District is equally as impressive.

Or if you haven’t had enough of Chile head South to Chiloé island or Torres del Paine. 

*All prices and exchange rates are based on our visit in April 2019