Chiloé Island | The Secret World of Mussel Fishing

We love a good road trip. Having a car gives us the flexibility to travel on our own terms. To change our route on a whim, follow the roads that call to us and feed our sense of discovery. Chiloé island was the perfect playground for us to explore aimlessly. The laid back lifestyle, the coastal drives, the delectable seafood. Surprisingly, it was also where we experienced one of the most memorable moments from our time in South America, one we keep coming back to time and time again. Here’s the story.

While trying to find somewhere to park up for the night in the one street town of Cucao, we stopped next to some sand dunes by the coast just short of the ‘no driving on the sand’ signs. We cautiously proceeded on foot to avoid getting stuck, just as a storm rolled in.

Ocean waves crashed on the shore, strong winds swept sand snaking past our feet, and in the distance, we couldn’t believe our eyes: about a hundred cars parked on the beach. Curious, we started walking through the wind to see what all the fuss was about. Beach party? Local hangout? We didn’t have to go far because suddenly they were driving towards us.

Wondering if we had wandered too close to something we shouldn’t have, we watched as the various cars, trucks and jeeps motored across the sand, each carrying as many people as possible inside, on the roof or in the truck bed. One after another they pulled up in front of us and parked next to the water. Then, as the wind picked up and the sand started to fly, we saw what they were doing.

In a flurry of activity everyone jumped out of their vehicles, stepped into wetsuits, grabbed long sock-like nets and headed for the water. Speed was the name of the game as some were already wading into shallow water before pulling on the sleeves of their suits.

It started to pour, adding to the excitement. Wind whipped sand and water through the air as we got closer to the action. We got a few curious and friendly looks as the only tourists in their midst. 

“Que es? Pescado?” we yelled to a local, trying to be heard through the waves and wind, cobbling together the little Spanish we knew. “Mejillones!” Mussels! Oh! 

Men, women, children, and elders joined in to catch the mussels that came rolling in with the waves. It was absolutely thrilling to watch. Soaking wet, sandy and smiling, we had to pull ourselves away from the spectacle.

Sometimes the best memories aren’t found by following guidebooks.

For our full road trip Itinerary and tips on how to plan a Chile road trip on a budget check out this post.

Need a place to stay while in Cucao? We’d highly recommend the stunning lakeside Palafito Lodge. Be sure to ask them to heat up the outdoor hot tub in advance. And if you’re booking online, use this link to get a discount (and us one too!)

Looking for something else to do while in Chile? Consider heading South to Torres del Paine.

What’s one of your favourite travel memories?