Machu Picchu | Breathtaking on many levels

Machu Picchu seems to be the destination on every traveller’s bucket list. So, when we told people about our 12-month trip, a lot of them asked if we were headed to Peru to explore the mysterious Inca city in the mountains. Alas, our reluctant response was that it would be an adventure for another day, as our plans (and budget) were set.

But when we found a flight deal that allowed for a one week layover in Peru en route to Patagonia, our hearts changed course. We set out to find a way to squeeze Machu Picchu somewhere in between without breaking the bank in our first week of travel.

We learned quickly that it’s not the entry fees to Machu Picchu that make it expensive, it’s getting there. For starters, the most common and fastest way to travel to Aguas Calientes – aka Machu Picchu Pueblo, the small town nestled in the foothills of the mountains – is to take a train…with a hefty price tag of around $150 USD per person. Even in low season, which is when we were visiting. We started looking for ways to get there for less. Turns out, it’s totally doable.

In fact, you can get there for way less. We found many tales of the “cheapest route to Machu Picchu” including hours (or days) of self-guided hiking and camping to avoid the cost of transportation. While the adventure and low price ($10 USD) called to us, our schedule wasn’t flexible and we weren’t ready to take on this monumental trek. Luckily, we found a route that was… yup… somewhere in between.

The Road to Machu Picchu

Okay, there is no actual road that gets you to Machu Picchu, but there is one that gets you pretty close. Cusco is scattered with companies offering bus tours that take you most of the way there, the perfect way to see Machu Picchu on a budget. The 6-7 hour drive winding through the mountains isn’t for everyone – certainly not the weak of stomach – nor is the 3-hour hike at the end, but for us, at half the price of a train ticket, it was perfect.

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Conveniently, we were able to book the entire journey through our hostel, Supertramp, where we stayed in Cusco. While we may have been able to negotiated a lower rate elsewhere given it was off-season, we loved that they coordinated everything for us – the minibus, our entry tickets, meals for our first day, our mandatory tour guide (new for the 2019 season), and a two-night stay at Supertramp’s Aguas Calientes location.

Rainy season in the Sacred Valley proved to be no joke. Rivers flowing down the mountain overtook the road with water so powerful we could feel it lifting the minibus closer to the edge as our driver stealthy maneuvered through, and we held our breaths. We even came upon a bridge that lost the battle to the growing power of the river and was almost entirely washed away. The walk and switch to a different minibus came at a small additional cost, much to our dismay, but we were quickly on the road again.

Just as we thought we’d left the nauseating journey behind us, we pulled off the highway and onto a dirt road that had us bouncing out of our seats like popcorn. Our stomachs welcomed the fresh mountain air when we arrived at the Hidroeléctrica Station, the de facto drop-off point for any wayward traveller not taking the train.

From there, we set out along the train tracks with dozens of others. The hike around the mountains was thankfully quite flat as we were carrying everything we’d need for our 2-night stay in Aguas. After a few breaks to take in the far up views of the mountaintops appearing between the clouds and the occasional waterfall and we were sitting in our bunk beds in less than 3 hours.

The Climb to Machu Picchu

The entrance to Machu Picchu sits at the base of the ruins, near the top of the mountain. Most people make their way up on the eco buses that monopolize the road. To save the $25 USD each we opted to walk up more than 3,000 steps instead.

We woke early, but not too early, as Supertramp advised that the typical recommendation to be at the entrance for the 6am opening was outdated advice. Since so many people want to arrive first, it’s actually one of the busiest times to go and, in rainy season, the fog is the thickest. Not to mention, the sun rises before the gates open anyways.

The brisk air gave us the energy we needed for our first leisurely 20 minutes walking along the river to get to the base of the trail. Below, the roaring river faded into the distance and the fog swaddling the mountains got closer. Switchback roads for buses full of relaxed riders were the only thing that broke up the infinite stairs. We made frequent stops to catch our breath as we ascended higher and higher. In just over an hour, we reached the entrance, exhausted and damp but proud of how we got there and excited about what was next.

The Fog Lifts

Machu Picchu is much richer than the postcard shot in our minds. We learned of the curious history of the Inca people, the accidental discovery of the mountain and just how little was known about the creation of Machu Picchu. Even the name Machu Picchu is only what the locals called the mountain and has since been attributed to the ruins themselves. It was a compelling intro to say the least.

We made our way up to the highest point overlooking the ‘city’ of Machu Picchu for that iconic picture we’ve seen countless times. With cameras at the ready, we were prepared to capture our very own version. What we were not prepared for was just how breathtaking it was.

The wispy morning fog slowly unwrapped itself from the mountains like scarves of silk, revealing a city of stone, impossibly well-preserved among the greenery of dozens of peaks and valleys.  Maybe it was how easy it was to visualize an ancient society meandering through houses and streets, or working in their gardens below. Maybe it was the wonder of why they left it all behind. Maybe it was the thin mountain air. Or the impossible trek to get there. Or imagining those who discovered Machu Picchu making that same trek, fuelled by curiosity. More than likely it was a combination of it all, but a picture, or a paragraph, simply can’t capture how we felt up there on those ancient cliffs.

A Different Perspective

The day could have easily ended right then and there, but as our tour guide said, “the mountains were calling to us.” So we set out to hike the highest mountain in view, Huayna Picchu. With the money we saved getting to Machu Picchu, it felt worthwhile to tack on the entrance fee for an experience that is only offered to 400 people a day.

We had already climbed a few thousand stairs, why not a couple thousand more? Only these stairs were not at all like the ones from earlier that day. These stairs, referred to as the stairs of death, were much steeper, narrower, and slicker from the rain. As we neared the summit, they inclined to feel more like ladders and we found ourselves climbing up on all fours. Looking over our shoulders, the view was always worth it.

After an hour we had ascended the highest peak in the valley and were among the clouds. It was incredible looking down to see Machu Picchu from a different, much higher perspective. The ruins, crawling with ant-sized tourists were only a portion of what we could see from the top. The Urubamba river snaking around the mountain was visible from all sides, marking the path we walked the previous day from Hidroeléctrica. The town of Aguas Calientes peeked out from below, and the winding road we crossed many times on our way up sat far off on the side of the hill.

El Fin

Our motto for this trip is “what is for you won’t go by you”, a wise Polish proverb. And in the case of this particular journey, it couldn’t be more true. Machu Picchu wasn’t in our original plans but it crept its way in and we’re so glad that it did. The majestic ruins and scenic surroundings far exceeded our expectations. No matter how you get there, you won’t be disappointed.

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Have you experienced this wonder of the world? Do you think it’s worth the extra effort to visit Machu Picchu even if you’re on a budget?