Valparaíso | 4 Reasons You’ll Love Chile’s Coolest City

Valparaíso is unlike anywhere else in Chile. Located on the coast, somewhere in between the harsh wind of the South and dry heat of the North. It’s the cultural epicentre and easily the coolest city in the country. Vibrant streets covered in graffiti, bustling with artists and seeping in history, an unbelievable food scene neighbouring an incredible wine region and a slew of Pacific beaches waiting to be enjoyed. There’s no shortage of things to do, which is why we had to extend our visit to over a week. And we think you’re gonna love it just as much. Here are our top 4 reasons to visit Valparaíso.

1 // The city is an endlessly evolving free art exhibit

The 42 Cerros (hills) of Valparaíso make a walk around town feel like a real-life game of snakes and ladders where any turn might send you on a new adventure. You could spend days meandering the tangled roads and narrow staircases discovering art and views along the way.

Every step, wall and passageway is covered in captivating graffiti and you never know when you’ll come across work from an up-and-coming artist or a mirador looking out over the colourful hills and ocean beyond. Whether explored by foot or by using the city’s 16 working elevators, there’s a ton to see and countless ways to see it.

Free Walking Tour

An affordable way to learn more about the artwork, the city and its history is a free walking tour (for tips). You’ll hear about some of the odd Chilean slang sprayed on the walls and how every inch of the city can be covered in paint when tagging is ‘illegal’.

Beyond graffiti, the tour goes into why the wonky hillside houses are each painted a unique colour, why three cemeteries sit in the city’s center and many other tidbits that will give you a fuller picture of such a curious city.

Valparaíso Cultural Park

Parque Cultural de Valparaíso showcases the city’s dedication to art. A prison complex until 1999, the grounds have since been used as a space for artists and was completely redesigned in 2010. Now it’s open to the public free of charge. You can wander the community garden, take in the murals along the walls and check out the gallery upstairs. It featured an excellent Gaudi exhibit when we were in town.

Open Air Museum

You may stumble upon El Museo a Cielo Abierto without even realising. The winding streets of Cerro Bellavista feature 20 outdoor murals from Latin American artists, maintained and numbered for visitors to enjoy. Some are so faded you may pass right by them without a second glance. An online map would certainly help you find them all but may not be as fun!

How to Discover Street Art in Valparaíso

Free walking tour – Leaves every day at 3pm from Plaza Sotomayor / Tip at your discretion
Valparaíso Cultural Park – Atop Cerro Cárcel / FREE / Tues-Sun 9am-7pm
Open Air Museum – FREE / 24/7 (but we don’t recommend wandering around the streets of Valpo at night)

2 // The food scene is one of the best in South America

An easy way to fall in love with Valparaíso is to eat your way through it. While we did discover good food in Puerto Natales and Santiago, overall, the food scene in Chile was sparse. Not so in Valpo. The streets of the main Cerros are lined with heladerias (gelato shops), empanada shops and restaurants galore. There is something for every budget and every taste. The hardest part of eating in Valpo is choosing where to eat, so here are a few of our faves. 

Mercado El Cardonal

There are few things that showcase the culture of a city quite like the local market. In Valpo it’s hard to know where the streets end and the market begins with vendors setting up blankets to sell their goods far outside any ‘official’ market boundaries. As you near the market, you’ll see men and women slicing fresh fish and shouting the vegetable of the day. Inside, you can stock up on anything from nuts to berries to meat. You may even see a cat or two guarding the produce.

Street Food

The bounty of delicious food in Valparaíso spills onto the streets in countless stands dishing out whatever your heart (and wallet) desires. Shawarma, chips with fried onions and sausage (Salchipapa), gourmet salads, deep fried sushi rolls, any gelato flavour you can imagine, freshly squeezed juice, even decadent alfojores are wrapped in tinfoil ready for snacking.

South America’s staple fast food – the humble empanada – in particular gets treated right in Valpo. Delicias Express offers 81 different varieties, including creations like smoked salmon and capers. Hands down our favourite empanadas, though, came from Le Pató which is becoming known for having the best in the city. They’re fresh, flavourful, handmade, and often sell out on a busy day.

Restaurants

From cheap and cheerful lunch eats to the finest of fine dining, Valpo has it all and then some. Chinchinero is a must for budget-conscious travellers. The cramped restaurant is usually full of locals enjoying the 3-course menu del dia but with only three options for each course service is speedy and tables turn over quickly. Enjoy the homestyle cooking with a fresh juice of the day or your coffee of choice to refuel before hitting the hills again. 

Dinner options are plentiful in Valpo. For fresh seafood that’s perfectly prepped, Check out El Peral. Grab a seat on the patio and enjoy your meal with a view facing the harbour. Cafe Vinilo has a great vibe, equally great food and street performers or local jazz bands often provide entertainment while you eat. Get there early to grab a table or wander in later in the evening to enjoy the music standing at the bar. And last but definitely not least, there’s the unbelievable Pasta e Vino. The Italian chef creates handmade, delectable pasta dishes with a seasonal menu, and the wine pairings are to die for. Definitely on the high-end of any budget, but totally worth the expense.

After all that there’s no doubt why food is a top reason to visit Valparaíso.

3 // Valparaíso neighbours a thriving wine region

After a couple of winery visits in Chile’s popular Central Valley we learned that Chilean wine is way more than rich, bold Cab Sauv. So with the thriving Casablanca region an hour inland from the city it’s no surprise that one of our favourite things to do in Valparaíso is indulge in local wine. 

Casablanca Valley sits between Santiago and Valparaíso, closer to the coast than the more well-known Central Valley and therefore much cooler. The climate is ideal for white grapes and growing in popularity for lighter reds like Pinot Noir and Syrah. You could easily spend a week in the valley going on posh tours or you can enjoy the best of the region from your home base in Valpo like we did. 

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Wine Nerd Fun Fact

Did you know Chile is one of the only regions in the world that produces Carménère? The grape, originally from France, was killed around the world by phylloxera which never reached Chile. They say it’s because the country is like an island protected by the Ocean in the West, Icefields in the South, Andes in the East and Desert in the North. 

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Self-Guided Day Trip to Casablanca

To save some cash and explore freely we opted to pass on pre-planned guided tours and explore on our own. Getting to Casablanca from Valpo couldn’t be easier. A bus leaves every half hour and you can buy your tickets right before boarding at the bus station. Once hopping off in Casablanca you can taxi from winery to winery.

For more detail on how to get to Casablanca, check out this helpful post from Practical Wanderlust.

Our first stop was Emiliana, one of the first organic wineries in the world. They started the move to organic in the ‘90s long before the movement was on trend because the owner had a health scare from pesticides. It took 5 years to purify the soil and 10 years to get an organic designation but now they are a leader in organic wine and help other producers learn tricks of the trade like how to attract bees, how to naturally reduce parasites and what plants to grow near the grapes to detect issues before they impact the vines. 

After getting educated (and a little tipsy) at Emiliana we headed to Bodegas RE, a boutique winery known for their innovative, unique blends. The tasting comes with a cellar tour and overview of their inventive techniques and experiments. Hands down our favourite wine was the Syranoir, a blend of Pinot Noir and Syrah. If you happen to go, please pick up an extra bottle (or case) and send it our way.

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Related // A Road Trip Through Chile’s Central Wine Region

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WineBox

To taste some local all-stars without leaving Valpo we suggest heading up to WineBox. The quirky hotel is a perfect match for sampling the areas wines. Renovated storage crates house artistically designed rooms that are aptly named after different varietals. Head up to the rooftop before sunset for a fantastic view and plethora of beautiful wines by the glass.

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Wine Nerd Fun Fact

Before the twentieth century the most commonly grown grape in Chile was Pais. It was mostly used for mass produced low-quality table wine until recently. Today, producers are cultivating the grape to make highly tannic and tart reds that showcase the best of the grape. We were pleasantly surprised when we tried it at WineBox.

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Pasta e Vino

Okay, so we already gushed about this Valparaíso restaurant above but it was honestly so good it deserved another mention. This time for their charming sommelier Diego. His beautifully curated wine list features local favourites, undiscovered producers and quirky Chilean offerings you won’t find elsewhere. And if you’re interested, he’s a wealth of knowledge you can tap before, during or after your meal.

4 // Plentiful beaches offer a slice of serenity in this raggamuffin city

If the vibrant artistic culture, delectable array of food and proximity to some of the country’s best wines weren’t enough to fall for Valparaíso, the beaches should be the tipping point. Scattered around the city you can find yourself horizontal on a beach towel in minutes and still have enough time to be back in the city for a sunset cocktail on Fauna’s panoramic patio.

Playa Las Torpederas

After taking in arguably one of the best views of the city from the top of Ascensor Artilleria we set out toward Playa Las Torpederas. It was a long and relatively uneventful walk so if you prefer you can hop on a city bus. You’ll be there in 15 minutes for a couple of dollars.

The beach itself isn’t huge but the sand is ideal for lounging and the waves crashing against the nearby rocks created the perfect relaxing rhythm. The water was goosebump-inducing when we visited in April but that didn’t stop the local high school crowd from enjoying, or us from dipping our tiptoes in. There’s a snack stand, public washrooms and a nearby promenade along the coast if you fancy a stroll.

Vina del Mar

For a more picturesque beach experience you may want to head to this prosperous neighbouring port town. Vina del Mar is seemingly one long stretch of beach lined with glamorous resorts, beautiful gardens, towering apartments and flashy restaurants.

Whether you’re looking for some quiet time, the perfect spot to swim or to see and be seen, Vina del Mar has a beach that’s right for you. And it’s less than 15 minutes from Valpo on the 704 bus.

In love yet? What’s your favourite reason to visit Valparaíso?