Perito Moreno Glacier | Beyond ‘The Wall’ in Patagonia

This Patagonian powerhouse put on one of the most spectacular natural shows we’ve ever seen. We stood for hours, mouths ajar, eyes affixed in awe as the wall of ice inched forward causing condo-sized chunks to plummet into the turquoise water below. In this post we’ll tell you about our experience with Argentina’s Perito Moreno glacier and how you can, and should, enjoy the performance for yourself.

To Glacier or not to Glacier

We arrived in El Calafate running on fumes, still fighting off sniffles acquired on the gruelling W-Trek (or maybe the celebratory drinks afterwards) and no plans for how to spend our time.

The top attraction in El Calafate is Perito Moreno Glacier in Los Glaciares National Park but our energy levels had us falsely unenthused by this prospect. Another glacier? Hadn’t we just exhausted ourselves to see one in Chile? Thankfully we had the right mix of FOMO and curiosity to convince us to shell out the cash to see what all the fuss was about.

Let’s just say that not all glaciers are created equal. If you’re only going to see one in all of the vast and magnificent Patagonia, this should be the one. It’s not just the sheer size, how close you can get, or that it feels eerily like the wall from Game of Thrones, it’s the movement of Perito Merino that truly sets it apart.

First Glance

We set out on wooden paths that have been built throughout the park with an endless number of viewpoints from various heights and angles along the way. The 250 square kilometre wall of ice was immediately impressive.

Boom.

Splash.

The sound was unmistakable and unexpected. We just missed a large chunk of ice fall into the water, ripples radiating from the point of impact, shards of ice flying in every direction, some blocks rolling up on shore and others bobbing into the vast lake. Our pace quickened.

At the first lookout we fixed our eyes for several minutes hoping to catch sight of the next crack and crumble. Moments later we experienced firsthand a jagged piece fall from the wall and the thunderous sound that followed. Little did we know this was just a fraction of what was to come.

The Main Event

We learned that even with the Glaciers impressive height above the water it’s twice the size below, and that the reason there’s so much activity is because the whole mass shifts by two metres each day.

It’s so fascinating that Argentina occasionally live streams it on cable TV when they’re expecting a lot of movement. Even what we saw – which was most likely a typical day at Perito Merino – was worth broadcasting, so we can only imagine how incredible these events must be.

Afraid to miss more of the action we scarfed down our picnic lunch and returned to our favourite viewpoints to watch in anticipation. Maybe it was a hunch, or maybe we actually saw a section of ice teetering, but we found a place to stay put for about 2 hours.

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Related // Visit Iguazu Falls for another Argentine natural wonder

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Our patience was rewarded. The massive section we had been watching started to cascade. At first only fragments fell, like sand pouring out of a bucket. Then, as if a giant took a chisel and hammer to the ice, colossal portions began breaking off. One after the other, it seemed as if an entire city block had just collapsed.

Overwhelmingly satisfied with the spectacle we turned back to the entrance and our bus. We had just enough time to enjoy a beverage – fittingly, whiskey poured over a chunk of ice from the glacier.

Getting to Perito Moreno Glacier

The 75km journey from El Calafate makes the visit to Perito Moreno Glacier costly. Good news is there are hoards of people making the journey daily so it’s quite simple. You have a few options to consider:

• Bus – A common option, buses can easily be arranged through your hotel/hostel or at the bus terminal. We opted for the former as they were the same price and came with door-to-door service. The morning bus leaves at 8:30am and heads back to town at 4pm so even with the hour and a half journey there’s plenty of time to explore (and even book a boat tour on site if you want to get closer). There’s also an afternoon bus if that better suits your schedule.
• Tour – If you can afford it we’ve heard wonderful things about trekking across the Glacier. Tours, including transportation, can be arranged in town.
• Car – The drive is an hour and a half and there’s ample parking. With four people a rental may even be a better option than separate bus tickets.
• Hitchhike – A popular option all over Argentina and Chile, though can’t vouch for it personally.

Budget per Person – 1,665 ARS

For us this was a splurge after the pricey W-Trek but it’s actually very reasonable for what could be a contender for one of the natural wonders of the world, in our humble opinion.

• Bus to glacier = 800 ARS / $28 CAD
• Entry (paid on the bus) = 700 ARS / $24.50 CAD
• Drink – 165 ARS / $5.75 CAD

Argentina’s insane inflation rate means prices are constantly fluctuating. These are from March 2019.

Related // Learn more about Argentina budgeting in our Complete Buenos Aires City Guide

Where to Next?

If you’re visiting El Calafate you have to spend a few days in our favourite town in Patagonia – El Chalten.

You’ll probably fly in or out of Buenos Aires so our perfect 4-day itinerary may be helpful and our Complete Guide to the Capital City dives deep on budgeting, safety and the top attractions.

On your way North stop in Bariloche and Mendoza to discover more of the beautiful countryside.

Is Perito Moreno Glacier on your bucket list?