Mendoza | Luján De Cuyo Without a Tour

A crisp Tuesday in autumn. The pleasant heat from the high sun grazes our skin as we look out across countless rows of browning vines below the snow-capped Andes. A glass of perfectly purple Malbec, fruity and complex, warms us with each sip. Harvest is over, tourism is slowing and the occasional bark from strays in the distance is the only reminder of a reality beyond this wine lover’s utopia.

In Luján de Cuyo, the mountains seem to cast a majestic spell of serenity over the region that pairs perfectly with the terrior’s offerings. Home to some of the country’s leading wineries there is no shortage of wine to be tasted and blissful views to be enjoyed. With over a month in Mendoza province we barely scratched the surface but our few days in Luján de Cuyo were some of the best. This guide will help you plan your time in one of our all-time favourite wine regions with tips on how to get around, where to stay, and the most essentials wineries to visit.

Navigating Luján de Cuyo Wine Region Without a Tour

Accommodations: Find the best place to stay in the region
Getting Around: Ways to get from winery to winery in Luján de Cuyo
Essential Wineries: The region’s must-visit spots
Itinerary Planning: Inspiration for where to head after Luján de Cuyo

Luján de Cuyo | Where to Stay

The long, narrow region is a patchwork of vineyards wedged between Highway 40 and the mountains south of Mendoza city. Many visitors exploring Luján de Cuyo congregate at the Northern end of the region in the easily accessible Chacras de Coria. The town has a ton of incredible restaurants and a bus system that makes getting around a breeze. Beyond the Mendoza river, the traffic of the city is left behind, storefronts and taxis are replaced with fields of vines, towering trees and tractors. Both sides of the region have their benefits.

In Chacras de Coria there is a wide range of places to stay, from budget digs like Lemon Tree Hostel with a refreshing pool, to the charming Luján de Cuyo B&B.

Farther South the accommodations are more sparse, but we did find a home in Villa Trinidad. It’s a beautiful property with some fantastic wineries within an hour walk or short bus ride. The rooms are luxurious and the daily breakfast is delicious. While it’s off-the-charts in cuteness, the downfall for the less-adventurous traveller will be inaccessibility. They recommend having a car for your stay which we unfortunately did not. There are no restaurants or grocery stores nearby and the kitchen isn’t suitable for proper cooking. We got by with the included breakfast, abundant winery lunches and pre-bought snacks for dinner. If, like us, the swoon-worthy hammock and stylish décor win you over, be sure to purchase a SIM card. There is no phone on site to use for calling wineries or taxis. Nevertheless, it’s an excellent option for exploring Luján de Cuyo without a tour.

The Deets – Villa Trinidad

Pricing – Starting at ARS 6,000 a night ($100 USD)
Bus – Route 765 and 779 go right past the entrance
Taxi – ARS 600 ($10 USD) from town

Luján de Cuyo | How to Explore the Region

Tour – The easiest way is to book one of the many tours. You can choose something like the hop-on hop-off bus from Mendoza city for a relatively affordable option with preset scheduled stops. Or you can book a private driver. It’s pricier but you can select your own stops and make your own schedule. If you have the cash this is the way to go. Since this is a guide to Luján de Cuyo without a tour, we obviously chose another route.

Bike – From the North end of the region you can bike around to the wineries in Luján de Cuyo. Baccuus Biking has different packages available for hitting up several great wineries. We had our hearts set on ones that weren’t accessible by bike so continued searching for options.

Related // A Guide to Exploring Maipu Wine Region by Bike

Self-Drive – Renting a car gives you the utmost flexibility and is less expensive than hiring a private driver. You can stay in tranquil, remote destinations and still have access to restaurants and wineries. It’s a great way to explore Luján de Cuyo without a tour but comes with one major caveat: you need a designated driver. Neither of us were willing to spend a day visiting wineries while watching the other drink alone so we ruled this one out.

Somewhere In Between | Public Bus + Walking + Taxi – Many locals in the region use public buses as their main means of transportation so remote routes run frequently. And the dirt cheap bus fare balances out the occasional taxi. We love that you get to see rural Argentina life walking between stops and through bus windows. Navigating isn’t always a breeze and there is certainly some trial and error involved so while this option is perfect for explorers and adds an element of discovery, it’s not for everyone.

No matter how you decide to travel around Luján de Cuyo the Essential Wineries in this guide are worth a visit. 

Tips for Taking the Public Bus

• Load Up – Purchase and load a bus card in city. The short trips are cheap and in our experience sometimes even free when workers are on strike or the tap machines aren’t working. But better safe than sorry so load up more than you think you’ll need. We did 90 ARS ($1.50 USD) each for three days and didn’t run out. 
• Plan your Route – Google maps has all the bus numbers and times. You can input a winery and your hotel and get door-to-door bus directions.
• Invest in a SIM card – We spent four months in and out of Argentina and never felt the need to have a SIM card…until we were waiting for a bus in the middle of nowhere for over an hour and a friendly local let us know the buses were on strike and not running. If you can, get an Argentina SIM card or enable your roaming plan for a day or two. It’s far cheaper than a tour and will make it easier to navigate and call taxis.
• Buffer your Time – Rural buses tend to run twice an hour. We recommend assuming that you will miss the one you want and plan to take the one half an hour earlier. Getting to a winery half an hour earlier means you can wander the vineyard, take in the views and look at the shop. But show up half an hour late and you’ll miss your booking and have made the trip for nothing. 

Luján de Cuyo | Essential Wineries

Catena Zapata

Our love of Argentina’s scrumptious Malbec began with one wine – Catena Zapata. So when we set out to explore the region of Luján de Cuyo our eyes were set on this one impressive winery. Their approach to tourism is all about enjoyment and education. They invite you in to get an in-depth look at everything they do. We opted for their pyramid tour of the iconic building found on their labels. The tasting at the end included some of their finest wines from a range of varietals. The best part was taking a glass up to enjoy on the rooftop. We were lucky enough to have a clear sunny day and the view was spectacular.

Book your tour at Catena Zapata far in advance as they are often booked solid. If you can’t get the date/time you want online be sure to email or call and ask them to let you know of cancellations.

The Deets – Catena Zapata

Pricing – The 1.5 hour pyramid tour is ARS 2200 per person
Hours – The winery is open to visitors Monday-Saturday for pre-booked appointments only. Closed Sundays. 
Bus – The 766 passes right by Catena
Taxi – ARS 700 from Chacras de Coria // ARS 250 from Villa Trinidad or other wineries listed here
Other options – A Malbec-focused 2-hour tasting (ARS 7,400) and a tour of Adrianna vineyard (ARS 11,100) are also available

Ruca Malen

Before arriving in Argentina we hadn’t heard of Ruca Malen but quickly became acquainted with their range of high quality wines under different labels as they popped up on wine lists everywhere from Patagonia to Salta. Their restaurant came highly recommended and after a thorough tasting at Catena we were in need of some nosh. We reserved a table for their renowned tasting menu with wine pairing, and so should you. Each course was carefully crafted to highlight one of their wines with a simple presentation of fresh and elegant ingredients from the area. Paired with the view from their patio on a sunny day it was simply perfect.

The Deets – Ruca Malen

Pricing – The cost changes with the menu but when we visited it was ARS 4,000 each
Hours – Open daily 9am-6pm for lunch only
Bus – The 713 and 779 will take you within a 20 min walk to Ruca Malen. Or it’s a leisurely 30 min walk from Villa Trinidad.
Other options – Call to book a tour with a picnic lunch or a simple wine tasting 
Hop-on Hop-off – Join the Tuesday Hop-on Hop-off bus tour to visit Ruca Malen from the comfort of Mendoza

Melipal

Down a gravel lane off the same highway as Ruca Malen sits Melipal, another fabulous (and more affordable) spot for a lunch tasting menu and wine pairing. Their bodega has a restaurant with a deck that rises over a pond. Surrounded by willows, olive trees and gardens it’s a gorgeous place for a meal. The tasting menu features classic dishes approached in unique and creative ways. Like a decadent onion soup served in the onion itself. Or buttery roasted trout accompanied by pumpkin three ways. Naturally, the menu changes seasonally but we have no doubt it’s amazing year round. 

The Deets – Melipal

Pricing – The cost changes with the menu but when we visited it was ARS 2,500 each
Hours – Open Mon-Sat 9:30am-5pm for lunch. Closed Sunday.
Bus – The 779 or 764 will take you within a 15 min walk from the driveway. If you’re staying at Villa Trinidad it’s an easy 30 min walk. 
Other options – Melipal also offers tastings in their private cellar, vineyard tours and outdoor cooking lessons
Hop-on Hop-off – Join the Tuesday Hop-on Hop-off bus tour to visit Melipal from the comfort of Mendoza

Belasco de Baquedano

Sampling wine is a fairly effortless and enjoyable experience, if you want it to be. But actually tasting the wine in all its complexity is something else. Searching for subtle hints of scents, dissecting distinct flavours, distinguishing between one wine to the next. For wine lovers, this is a big part of the experience in Luján de Cuyo. And Belasco de Baquedano has a truly unique offering to make it even better: an aroma room. 

Before you do your tasting you can sniff your way through 46 isolated scents representative of the most common flavour notes in wine. The idea is that logging the smells of everything from florals to fruits to soil can help build your repertoire of what to expect and differentiate in wines. We’re certainly no Somms (watch this documentary if you haven’t yet) but it was fun trying to learn and separate the scents. The tasting that follows is the best way to practice. Be sure to ask for the premium tasting, it’s better than the standard.

The Deets – Belasco de Baquedano

Pricing – The scent room is available with any tasting, starting at ARS 400
Hours – Open daily with tours at 10am, 11:30am, 1pm and 3pm
Bus – Route 779 will take you right to the driveway
Taxi – ARS 700 from Chacras de Coria // ARS 200 from Villa Trinidad or other wineries listed here
Other options – Belasco de Baquedano also has a rooftop restaurant with a stunning view of the Andes open 12:30-3pm daily

Where to Next?

While you’re in the area be sure to spend a couple of nights in Mendoza city to enjoy some of the country’s best restaurants.

To continue your South American wine journey, head across the border for a road trip through Chile’s Central Valley or a day trip to Casablanca wine region.

Or explore more of the majestic Argentine scenery by heading South to breathtaking Bariloche in the lake district or our favourite town in Patagonia, El Chaltén.

Enjoy your time in Luján de Cuyo. We hope this helps you navigate one of our favourite wine regions without a tour.